Friday Favorites: More Four Seasons Fun
Trains, planes, and cable cars:
Angela Simon in Switzerland, Italy, and France
Angela recently returned from an edifying trip through Switzerland, Italy, and France on which she learned how to navigate the Swiss rail system, explored the hidden gems of Florence, and discovered what it means to glam it up in Monaco. All in all, a successful mission.
SWITZERLAND
Angela flew into Zurich and headed to Interlaken where she settled into Grand Hotel Victoria Jungfrau & Spa. The terrace overlooks the lake and mountain, and you can watch paragliders land on an open area in front of the hotel throughout the day. Angela reports, “The staff was just great. . . . It’s a good spot to spend a few nights and take day trips.”
She next took the train to Lauterbrunnen to see Europe's largest subterranean waterfalls. It proved the perfect activity for a rainy day, because you ride on a funicular inside the mountain. The experience is akin to going caving without all the spelunking equipment and fear. Talk about putting the “fun” in funicular.
On to Wengen, a charming carless town (like Murren), for a roam about in the drizzle. (The rain did nothing to dampen spirits.) In Lucerne, Angela visited famous Chapel Bridge awash in geraniums. Next up: a serious spa experience.
Bergenstock Resort may well be the apex of luxury with its phenomenal views and a superb spa that only the Swiss could dream up. The spa encompasses far more than your average massage and sauna. In one area, you float in a salt pool whilst listening to soothing sounds in the dimness, taking care not to bump into other spa goers. (“It was like a sci-fi movie,” says Angela, but in the best sense.) Another area included a light therapy chair (not to be confused with a tanning bed), while yet another had a waterbed-like chaise longue for longue-ing. Who knew there were so many ways to relax? Nice, too, that the bath in Angela’s swell suite had a double-sided fireplace and sweeping views.
Many thanks to Bucher travel for all their help!
Angela’s tip: “The Swiss Traveling Bellboy luggage transfer is genius. Do not do it any other way! You just take a little backpack on the train and avoid hauling luggage on and off or storing it in a locker. It’s huge.”
Best day: A day that included all modes of transport to get to and from Mt. Pilatus proved to be one of Angela’s favorites. After walking to Lucerne pier, she took a boat to and then cogwheel train up Mt. Pilatus. Crowded though it was—there were many near misses with unruly selfie sticks— the view from the top was dramatic—windy, freezing, and icy, but breathtaking, nonetheless. Angela noted that the structure on top (which houses cafes, etc.) bears a striking resemblance to a James Bond villain’s lair (and it does!). “The trip to Mt Pilatus exceeded my expectations. I thought it was spectacular, and it’s really fun to take a boat, cogwheel train, cable car, gondola, and bus to get there. It was so much colder and windier than I imagined because it was nice in Lucerne, so take a coat, hat, and gloves. I had a short hike and ate lunch at one of the restaurants. It was one of my favorite days of the entire trip,” reports Angela.
ITALY
Angela took a train down to Milan, where one of our lovely IDI friend, Filippo, met her and took her to do some sightseeing. They strolled around the rooftop of the Duomo for its stunning views (but with the crowds, it’s not for the faint of heart or acrophobic). She then installed herself at The Four Seasons Milan—Italian opulence at its best with toothsome deserts and Aperol spritzes at every turn. In true Italian-fashion, the servers at the hotel (actually opera singers) burst into song sending up a “bravo!” from the diners. Angela was quite taken with the diminutive chairs provided for purses in restaurants—because in Italy, handbags too deserve a seat at the table.
The next day brought a boat ride on Lake Como with our friend Steve Torres of Four Seasons. Alas, George Clooney was not in residence at that time, though he sent his best regards. They walked around Bellagio.—a cute town with lots of shopping and outdoor cafes.
On another tour of the city, the guide took Angela to off-the beaten-track sights—like Leonardo DaVinci’s little vineyard tucked away from crowded city streets. “You would never have guessed it was there,” says Angela. She got to walk around its sweet courtyard and even go into the house itself. (This is a nice add-on after seeing “The Last Supper” across the street.)
Angela next took a train to Florence—again porter service was essential—and stayed at the stunning Four Seasons Florence. Even by Four Seasons standards, it’s kind of off-the-charts. The 15th-century Palazzo was once owned by Pope Leo XI, making it one of the few papal residences where you can sleep. There’s also an immense 11-acre private park surrounding the two Renaissance buildings that offers an escape from the bustle. Angela says, “They have amazing grounds with gardens, a pool, outdoor dining and a spa—maybe a full city block. The buildings are filled with frescos. I can’t say enough about how pretty this is.” A phenomenal piano player enchanted guests at the bar—so good is he that it’s said Sir Elton John and Sting spontaneously sat down to accompany him during their stays. It all lent itself to a festive, distinctly Italian atmosphere—a lively wedding party at brunch, along with lots of families and locals, only enriched the experience.
The walking tour of Florence was a highlight because of Elizabeth, their amazing guide from IDI—as we all know, a dynamic guide can be a game changer. “She was just fantastic—spontaneous, knowledgeable, enthusiastic,” enthuses Angela. As in Milan, they got to explore spots secreted away from the throngs, like the Museo degli Innocenti, Museum of the Innocents, an old orphanage that has a rooftop café with amazing views and Laurentian Medici Library. She also enjoyed a stroll through fragrant Bardini Garden, Giardino Bardini, and had a memorable gelato. After all, so much of Italy is strolling (often with gelato in hand), and Angela did her part.
FRANCE
It’s hard to leave Italy, but a little easier knowing that France awaits—and Grand-Hotel du Cap-Ferrat Four Seasons. All the way at the end of the cape, the palace is located in the middle of 17 acres of lushly landscaped gardens overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. In the heart of the French Riviera between Villefranche sur Mer and Beaulieu Sur Mer, St Jean Cap Ferrat perches on a peninsula jutting into the azure waters. This an ancient seaside village has for decades drawn celebrities and politicians from all over the world—and now, Angela.
They visited Fragonard perfume factory, explored Eze and Villefranche sur Mer, and toured Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild (also called villa Île-de-France). “The Rothschild villa is a beautiful old house with great gardens and views of the sea. Every 15 minutes they turn on the fountains and music is played. It’s really fun for an afternoon stop,” recalls Angela. Thank you go our friends at Lafayette who did a superb job arranging Angela’s sightseeing while there.
So much splendor could exhaust a gal, but more was in store. Angela concluded her trip on a high note with a surprise dinner in Monaco—and this time, the transportation was a sunset yacht cruise. “Our captain was fun and charming, and the boat was so great looking.” They raised their glasses of champagne to Bono and The Edge in passing, as they zipped by the side-by-side rockstar residences on the coast.
We’d like to raise a glass to Four Seasons, who made this trip both dazzling and fun.
Overall Highlights: trip to Mt. Pilatus in Switzerland, Elizabeth with IDI (Florence guide), sunset yacht ride to Monaco.
